amynicole – In the world of watchmaking, tradition often defines excellence. While many European horologists pride themselves on the centuries-old heritage of their workshops. Toledano & Chan have taken history to an entirely new level with their latest creation. The design duo crafted a luxury timepiece, the B/1M. Using material far older than any artisan’s lineage: a meteorite that struck Earth approximately 1 million years ago.
Drawing inspiration from Brutalist architecture, designers crafted the B/1M using a fragment of the Muonionalusta meteorite, which crashed into northern Scandinavia millennia ago. The first remnants of this celestial rock were discovered in 1906 in the Swedish village of Kitkiöjärvi. Over the years, additional pieces have been unearthed across the region. Revealing a fascinating glimpse into our cosmic past.
While some luxury watches incorporate small meteorite fragments into their dials, artist Phillip Toledano and watchmaker Alfred Chan sought to create something extraordinary. They used the meteorite not just for accents but for the entire structure, including the case, dial, and lugs. This comprehensive use of meteorite material sets the B/1M apart in the realm of horology.
“Meteorite dials are relatively common in luxury watches,” Toledano shared during a virtual interview from New York. “But creating an entire watch case, including the dial and lugs, from meteorite is a rarity.”
The Cost and Craftsmanship of a Meteorite Timepiece
The creation of the B/1M watch involves more than just innovative design—it comes with a significant price tag due to its rare material. Phillip Toledano, co-creator of the watch, revealed that raw meteorite often sells for more per gram than gold. While he kept the exact cost of the fragment used for the B/1M undisclosed. Experts expect the prototype to sell for $8,000 to $16,000 at the Time for Art auction. The Auction hosted by Phillips Watches in New York.
“There are no meteorite trees, so it’s deeply expensive to work with,” Toledano explained. Artisans cannot reuse meteorite fragments. Unlike gold, which allows leftover material to be recycled for future projects, making the process both wasteful and costly.
The Muonionalusta meteorite, primarily composed of iron, posed additional challenges. To prevent rust, the team coated the watch with a specialized anti-corrosion layer. However, the unique visual appeal of the material made the effort worthwhile. The meteorite’s surface features multidirectional striations called Widmanstätten patterns, which lend the watch an “otherworldly” appearance with a subtle, glittering effect.
To enhance the design, Toledano and Alfred Chan paired the Brutalist-inspired meteorite case with a gray ostrich leg strap. The organic texture of the strap contrasts beautifully with the angular, metallic case, creating a blend of natural and industrial aesthetics.
The designers aim to produce the B/1M in limited quantities. Ensuring that each piece is unique due to the inherent variability in meteorite patterns. “For us, the interesting part of watchmaking is exploring new materials and exploring new forms,” Toledano said, highlighting their commitment to pushing boundaries in both craftsmanship and design.
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Brutalism Meets Watchmaking: The Inspiration Behind the B/1M
Phillip Toledano and Alfred Chan, co-founders of their eponymous watch brand launched in 2021, drew inspiration for their B/1M prototype from their shared admiration for Brutalist architecture. Their creative journey began through an Instagram connection, which led to a collaboration focused on blending modernist design with innovative watchmaking.
The B/1M, like its steel predecessor, the B/1, takes cues from the angular forms of the post-war Brutalist movement. A specific muse for their design was the iconic Breuer Building in New York, created by modernist architect Marcel Breuer in the 1960s. Sotheby’s owns the building, which once housed the Whitney Museum of American Art and features an austere, top-heavy structure with distinctive trapezoidal windows. These architectural windows influenced the asymmetric shape of Toledano & Chan’s watch design.
Reflecting Brutalism’s minimalist ethos, the B/1M watch face is devoid of traditional numbers or symbols, emphasizing clean lines and simplicity. Addressing concerns about readability, Toledano humorously noted, “If you’re looking at that watch face and can’t tell the time, you’ve got bigger problems.”
The steel B/1 model, priced at $4,000, became an unexpected success, selling out within an hour of its release. Toledano attributes this popularity to a growing acceptance of unconventional watch designs. “There’s been a noticeable shift, especially among men, toward embracing watches with unique shapes,” he observed.
The B/1M takes this evolution further, combining the raw, textured allure of meteorite material with the bold geometric design that defines the brand. By marrying architectural inspiration with exceptional craftsmanship, Toledano and Chan have created a watch that challenges traditional norms while resonating with modern design enthusiasts.